Aura Vista

Candomblé

About this tradition

Candomble is the Afro-Brazilian religion formed in the nineteenth century from the Yoruba and Bantu and Fon substrates that slavery carried to Brazil, the sister religion of Cuban Santeria and Haitian Vodou, organized around autonomous houses, the terreiros, run by the mothers and fathers of saint, most Bahian houses led by women, with no central authority and no sacred text. Its supreme creator is distant and not worshipped directly; the religion revolves around the orixas, morally ambiguous spirits of nature and ancestry with their colors and foods and days and taboos, and around axe, the creative spiritual force whose material effects concentrate in sacred stones and fresh leaves and the blood of offerings. Every person carries a tutelary orixa assigned before birth and discovered by divination, and the nations, the ritual lineages from Ketu and Jeje and Angola, preserve their separate liturgies, the Yoruba vocabulary's spread across them a documented process of the twentieth century.

What practitioners do: the cowrie-shell divination that diagnoses and directs, cast by the priests as their main income; the initiation, expensive and weeks long, from the cooling of the sacred objects through the seclusion of the ronco and the herb baths and the sacrifice to the seating of the orixa in the shaved and incised head, then the year of obligations in white clothes, sitting on the floor, eating with the hands, with graded renewals at one and three and seven years after which the initiate may open their own house; and the possession, the initiated dancers mounted as the orixa's horse, marked by the vertigo call and dressing in the deity's colors, a privilege rather than a burden, no memory afterward. The atabaque drums, living beings that must be fed, drive the all-night ceremonies, and the feast calendar opens in September and reaches its public height on Iemanja's day in February, when hundreds of thousands gather at the Salvador shore and cast offerings to the sea.

Where it came from, briefly: four million Africans reached Brazil, more than any other part of the Americas, the Yoruba and Dahomean waves the last and dominant, and the earliest terreiros of Bahia date to the early nineteenth century, the founding house's 1830 date being the tradition's own origin story as the scholarship notes. The persecution record is long: the penal code's criminalization, the police raids through the nineteen-twenties and forties led by the vice chief whose name became a warning song, the period psychiatry that framed the religion as pathology, then the Vargas era's turn to recognition and the heritage listing of the founding house in 1984 as the first terreiro registered as national treasure.

The scholarship built the field's canon from the race-science era's first study through the French ethnologist who became a babalawo and the later ethnographies, and notably fed back into practice, helping standardize what the terreiros consider correct. The community's numbers are an undercount by the scholars' agreement, the census's hundred and sixty-seven thousand self-declared against the dual affiliation and stigma that hide the real total, the thousand-plus terreiros of Salvador and the mapped houses of Rio the visible structure, spread nationally and into the diaspora. The religion's current record includes the documented wave of intolerance: the complaints rising by the year, the Afro-Brazilian religions the largest targeted group where religion is recorded, the terreiro sites bought and converted, celebrated at carnival and hated in daily life as the wire service put it. Access is initiatory, the knowledge guarded as the scholars describe a secret society, with the public feasts and the healing and divination open to clients and visitors. Its counsel is the tradition's own: the orixas are served with discipline and reciprocity, the axe is real and must be fed, and the head's owner is the orixa, not the self, which is the practice's whole reorientation.

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Organizations whose work centers on candomblé.